about 10 hours ago
Extreme Cleanse Milky Micellar Barrier-Repair Cleanser
INNBEAUTY PROJECT
Interesting Concept -- Not For Sensitives
Source: Sephora
Consumer Star Rating: 4.8
Skin Type: Normal, Dry, Combination, and Oily
Skincare Concerns: Dryness and Dullness
Formulation: Cream
Other “Extreme” line Products I’ve used: Extreme Eye Cream
Product Copy:
A smarter cleanse, this milky micellar cleanser removes 100% of makeup and impurities while continually strengthening the skin barrier all day. Everything off, nothing stripped. Adaptive Lipids + Micellar Spheres attract, trap & rinse away makeup, SPF, and impurities. Ceramides and biomimetic Lipids replenish moisture and leave skin clean, soft, and hydrated: never stripped, tight or greasy. Ideal for sensitive skin and dry, depleted skin that becomes more common as you age.
Ingredient Spotlight:
- Adaptive Lipid Technology + Micellar Spheres: Attract, trap, and rinse away makeup, SPF, and impurities.
- 6.5% Glycerin + 3% Squalane Complex: Replenish moisture and boost long-term hydration.
- 3X Ceramides + Biomimetic Lipids: Thoroughly nourish and strengthen skin barrier.
INCI:
Water, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Glycerin, Coco-Betaine, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Methylpropanediol, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Chloride, Acrylates Copolymer, Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer, Squalane, Cetyl Alcohol, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Centella Asiatica Extract, sh-Oligopeptide-1, sh-Oligopeptide-2, sh-Polypeptide-1, sh-Polypeptide-11, sh-Polypeptide-9, Urea, Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract, Allantoin, Panthenol, Trehalose, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil, Betaine, Saccharide Isomerate, Hedychium Spicatum Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Glycosphingolipids, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sorbitol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Cyanocobalamin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Sodium Phosphate, Acetyl Glutamine, Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tromethamine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Limonene.
My Skin Profile: Sensitive/Reactive, Rosacea, Combo oily/dry, Mature
Lobster Rating: Avoid
Duration of Use: Only 2 days!
Skin Reaction:
Hives, flushing, “burnt tongue” sensation around the eyes, damaged barrier. After 1st use, a rash appeared on my chest. Use 2, on my face. Use 3, my eyes felt burnt.
Review:
I wanted to try this cleanser because the adaptive lipid technology sounded interesting and I’ve had positive experiences with the brand’s eye cream. I’m a bit shocked by the assertion that it is safe for sensitive skin now that I’ve experienced it and did a deep dive into the ingredients. There are some immediate red flags for sensitive skin like the amount of herbal and floral extracts in the INCI list, but I don’t always have issues with these. Urea…I may need to consider if this is safe for my sensitive skin when in combination with a “scrubbing” product like a cleanser (as opposed to a more passive exfoliant in moisturizer) that also contains skin irritants like limonene, etc. All of these have the potential to irritate sensitive skin, however, I did not expect an allergic reaction. From my reading, it appears that failing to thoroughly rinse away the cleanser can lead to the burning and irritation that people are experiencing. However...the product is DESIGNED to leave some of itself behind. So...huh???
I liked:
-The scent was tolerable and reminded me of Fruit Loops cereal.
-It left a lipid skin-like veil behind, which is very interesting technology (if I wasn’t allergic to it!).
-It did loosen stubborn sebum around my nose.
-Lux glass bottle with pump.
I disliked:
-The instructions suggest applying the cleanser on dry skin like an oil cleanser, but the product has very little slip on its own. A lot of friction is required to spread it over the face. This, for my skin, made it feel like I was developing road rash. I had to apply on damp skin for comfort the next time.
-The ingredients caused allergic contact dermatitis and burning around my eyes with additional use. Other reviewers mentioned the same but either were even more sensitive to it or kept using it despite the discomfort, because they have actual red burns around their eyes. Mine only felt burnt.
-Increased vascular flushing on my cheeks and forehead to almost full lobster!
-It took a weakened barrier and destroyed it.
Result:
Item returned for a refund. The closest skin reaction that I could compare to my experience with the cleanser is the way medical-grade bandaids and tape burn my skin and leave red welts. I performed an ingredient comparison and found that a common denominator between the cleanser and the bandaids comes from the acrylates family. These are film-formers and thickeners which have a reputation for causing eye irritation, especially. Rosin and pine derivatives also appear in both. *** indicates the ingredients found in the cleanser.
Acrylate and Methacrylate Ingredient family:
- Acrylates Copolymer ***
- Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
- Sodium Polyacrylate
- Carbomer
- Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
- Octocrylene (Often found in SPF)
- Etocrylene
- Polyquaternium (e.g., Polyquaternium-7, -10, -11)
- Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
- Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer.
- Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
Rosin & Pine Derivatives (Bandage Adhesive & Botanical Triggers):
- Colophonium / Colophony / Rosin
- Limonene ***
- Linalool
- Abietic Acid / Methyl Abietate
- Pine / Conifer Extracts (e.g., Pinus Palustris, Pinus Sylvestris)
Other Possible Triggers:
- Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, a strong cleansing surfactant known for irritation
- Coco-Betaine, surfactant known for irritation
- Urea
- Citric Acid, fruit extracts fragrances
- Large variety of herbal extracts
- Emulsifiers and emollients linked to seborrheic dermatitis
To quote CYoung -- SKIP IT!
Comments